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Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I just upgraded both of my 1.5XT's to use 2208's on X & Y and both got a shift, one on the x axis and the other in the y axis. DO you remember what your initial voltages were by chance? I set mine to 1.51V per the calculations.

this would be great!! I have not touched my gMax in a long time and would love to make some updates to make it better. ever consider upgrading to the titan Aero hot end?

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread, but I have a couple questions about upgrading to the E3D. In using the new bracket, do I need to change any other settings in the firmware to indicate that the sensor is now in a different location in relation to the hot end? Also, are there special...

How does the Light bar and shroud fit with this?

Bob, which version of the S3D profile do you have? Did you get the most recent one (dated 20 May 2016)? Once I loaded that I had no issues using S3D to slice and print.

My house has a tendency to be drafty during the winter. So I would have issues with prints not sticking to the bed or warping during the winter. I had to at one point put a shield around it to block the drafts.

I agree. I'd love to see the glass plate with buildtak become standard over the acrylic. I'm still weighing my options with this. Not sure if I can get just a sheet of glass this size locally.

Thanks for the advice. I will give it a try.

So, here is where I am at. After switching out the dual extruder set up for a single, I am having some issues with the acrylic bed not being flat. I have dialed in the hot end from the center of the bed, but it seems the left side of the bed is a bit too low and the prints do not stick there...

I agree with dunginhawk. Cold does not matter with NinjaFlex. Even LulzBot recommends/requires you to use glue stick on their PEI beds because the NinjaFlex will stick like mad.

Thanks for the clarification.

What is the best orientation to print the 1.5+ holders? They import standing up, but if I were to lay them flat on the bed would they print okay? If standing up is better, I take it supports are needed everywhere?

Okay, update time. I made some more tweaks and I think I have things down. Per a suggestion I lifted the front left corner of the acrylic using a 1/4" washer and things seem to be sticking better when I do a full-bed print. There is a spot or two (back left corner) that need additional tweaking...

Alex, I will give this one a go first before modeling something different. Thanks!

Well, before I go investing in a piece of glass what can I do to the acrylic plate first? Currently the surface has quite a few scratches and gorge marks from the instances when the extruder was dug into the bed while attempting to print with S3D. Do I try to sand them out? or simply flip the...

Thanks for that. However while I want to upgrade to the heated bed option I do not want to do it now. Most of my projects are using PLA, so a heated bed is not a necessity. Are there any other options I can try?

Alex, Is there an easy way to determine where the acrylic is uneven? Is running the large calibration object or is there a better method/object to print?

Okay, first of all thanks to everyone who has replied thus far. All of the suggestions are really helpful. Second, I have been working off-line with Kyle and am taking a stepped approach. Since I can print the test print g-code files on the provided SD Card with zero issues (well, at least...

I will certainly check that out. However, I believe it isn't the firmware as in using Slic3r the Z moves accordingly after the auto leveling and does not grind/bind as with S3D. Also, yes the BLTouch does move freely and self test on power up.