Search results

Re: Upgrade Kits are Not Available (gCreate's Official Posit Well looks like I have to design my own bed plate. Wish the excitement of knowing Gordon cared about his customers/backers was still there but it is all beyond faded.

Thank you for voicing your opinion hopefully together we can either get some traction or at least a timely response.

I realize that you don't want to hand out the plans to your machine to everyone due to your success in printer sales but I can't help that this was a team effort between you AND your Kickstarter backers. I do feel let down in the fact that you are stopping support for people like me who helped...

The files are currently available but the bed plate file is not for those looking.

I am also patiently waiting. Can you at least give us a time frame on the files?

I ended up turning down the PID max setting from 255 to 170. I now have a max of 1.5°c in either direction.

There was no MINTEMP error but the drop in temperature made the extruder start to click because it can't force the filament through the nozzle.

My range varies from 192 to 209 per autotune cycle. This is frustrating.

Print temp drops to 186 from the set 200 with no fans on that might cool down the nozzle. There is the stock fan that cools the heatsink but it's on regardless. edit: 650w PSU with three 12v rails at 22a each is what I'm using.

Yeah, I have done exactly that and it wasn't working well. Would there be different tuning parameters with one nozzle already hot or heating concurrently? Edit: Current settings #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.00 #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.26 #define DEFAULT_Kd 97.75

How hard would it be or orient the keystone 90 degrees in a manner where the punchdown would be facing you in the picture you posted? (facing away from front of extruder assembly) Using the blue and black variety keystone that is.

Figured it out. The bottoms of my z rods were hitting the edge of the holes of the lower left and lower right z bracket from the 1.5 set of parts. My Z rods also have a slight bend in the bottom which is what is causing it to hit.

I am talking spacing the wheels out further in the y direction, not X. This will give you less bed shake with fast moves. Also having the v rails from 1.0, they are longer than the 1.5 ones and the acrylic pieces underneath can be at least 2 inches longer giving you even more stability.

After looking over my build and the updated 1.5 pictures. I think the acrylic pieces could be longer in the Y direction for more stability.

Ultimachine 4043 @ 196c (I have since lowered this to 190.) 85mm/sec the stock settings config for slic3r by Gordon The upper picture individual layer cross section is shaped like a "C" and is about 2mm thick as is the bottom of the bottom picture. The top section of the bottom picture is...

I have been printing only single extruder small objects due to warping and not being able to align the print heads. I currently am in between jobs and am waiting to start my new job before buying the upgrades I want. Wanting the monster 18" heated bed with borosilicate glass and the autolift...

Ray, I'd be curious at how your entire y axis looks. I am trying to get the full 16" travel on the y axis.

I decided to just mock up the new pieces. I haven't had a chance to go get them laser cut so I don't know if they work. They are based on known measurements. Here are the dxf and skp (I use sketchup) files.

I assume both of you are referring to the 1.5 variant of the acrylic pieces. I have pm'ed Gordon and am awaiting a response. If I don't get one soon, I may design my own.