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Move the x axis all the way to the right. Then home it. When it starts moving, press the homing switch with your finger. Does it stop? If it doesn't, check wiring. If it does, the wiring is good. Make sure the switch is being contacted by the carriage.

phoenix connector and wire ferrule.

Look in your slicer, there will be a "start script" section. Add it to that.

At the Arduino end, connect the extruder wire to the x axis wire then send a command to move the x axis. Does the motor work then? If it does, you probably have a bad driver. If it doesn't recheck wiring. You can do the opposite while you're at it. Connect the x axis motor to the extruder...

gCreate provides all the stl files you'll need. Look in the download section.

Of course you can do all of that. The question is do you know how to? Since you're asking if you can, I would guess not. The printer uses Marlin firmware. You'll need to be able to make changes to it. Start by learning Marlin.

Try tuning the extruder. https://mattshub.com/blog/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration

I don't have a gmax 2 and never seen one but can't imagine it can be that difficult. Can you explain what's so hard about it? maybe some pictures?

Why not go with the magnetic flexible beds at this point?

Ha! Series 1! I have serial number 34 and it was still printing great! I say was because I recently decided to rebuild it just to get rid of the wood. Really good printers. Too bad they priced themselves out of business.

The end is loose. You need to re-tighten it occasionally. Here's the instructions. https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en Your best bet is to take the whole thing apart, clean it very well, then reassemble.

Unless I'm missing something the Palette doesn't attach to the extruder at all. It fuses filaments together internally then feeds them to the printer like any other filament. The work is done in the slicer so as long as you use their slicer, it just works.

So you have to figure out why it's not homing. Does the X axis make it to the homing switch? If not, what's stopping it. Does the Y axis make it to the homing switch? If not, what's stopping it. If you can post a video of the homing sequence, there may be something obvious in it. Look for loose...

Isn't good?? It's 2.5mm across a 18" glass bed. The glass itself is probably that uneven. We're talking mm's. Here's mine and it prints perfectly. Can you show us what yours looks like? Must be close to perfect if you think these are bad.

Looking good! How are the prints?

Is the extruder fan working?

Extrusion width isn't just some arbitrary number. It might be printing better but you need to tune your extruder to make sure 20mm is really 20mm. I find the default settings are way off. Here's a good guide. https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/ Pay attention to the extruder...

Just wire them in series to the same pins. You don't care which one runs out, if either does you want the print to pause.

Yes, they go to the cat5 cable. Did you try to reverse polarity? Maybe you swapped them when reconnecting them.

Can't really tell from those pictures. Don't see the fan wires in them. Try this, find the fan connection on the board and flip it the other way. They are polarity sensitive so maybe it's backwards. A meter is your best bet