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I have this problem too and sometimes have to reinsert the SD card or cycle the printer a time or two before I can get the printer to recognize the card. This may be related to static electricity that builds up in the card as I am carrying it from my PC (inside the house) to the gMax (in the...

I too had a lot of problems leveling when I first started with my gMAX. Now, I can't even remember the last time I leveled the bed. I've probably done 50 prints without adjusting the leveling screws. The only change I can recall making is really tightening down the leveling screws so there is...

While the bed being too high could be the problem, the edge line of the part as well as the outer loop look like they printed fine. If the bed was too high it would seem that these would not print. I'll offer a some other possibilities. 1 - The cooling fan might be kicking on part way through...

Could the problem be caused by a belt that is a bit too loose? When the head suddenly shifts direction, the printer with the loose belt skips a notch while the other printer does not. The direction of the skip would provide a clue about which belt to check. The only other thought is to try...

While you wait for someone to come up with a better answer, you could try to lower your acceleration way down to 600. That's what I've got mine set at and I'm getting great prints. Does it seem like your printer is shaking or moving too fast when the layers shift? That could be related to...

The commonly used term for what you are calling the table is the bed and it looks like yours is warped significantly. You might be able to get by with this bed for small test prints by starting the print in a fairly level spot. You will likely need to replace the bed before you print anything...

I have considered loading up the top of my gmax with spool holders. But I am afraid of them falling on to the printer. This happened to me during an overnight print. My top rail is loaded with 3 to 4 reels of filament, but that was not the problem. I was using some inexpensive ebay filament...

Congrats on the build, looks great. I might be inspired to add to my LED array. Chris

I'm away from my printer so I can't take any photos, but the only things I recall needing were 2 metal L braces and a 5/16" tap. The L braces secure the back sides of the two vertical legs to the base frame. I used some spares I had laying around. A variety of sizes will likely work. A plastic...

230 seems way too high for Colorfab (and most) PLA on an acrylic bed. My PLA fused to the acrylic bed when I printed at 210. I had to destroy the print to get it off and big chunks of it permanently attached to the bed. I had to flip the bed over to keep using it. My main problem with the...

It's hard to tell what is going on from your description. Are you loading a gCode file from an SD card? I would open the file and see what the gCode commands are. The out of the box version of Slic3r appends a hotend centering sequence at the start of a gCode print file. It seems as if your...

Ray: This lengthy response still does not cover all I might have to say regarding your questions. Rather than further hijack the thread we could continue the exploration in some other manner. This basic forum has met my initial needs. I bought my gMAX 2nd hand from someone who was not quite up...

I went to Filastruder.com to order my second e3Dv6 hotend and noticed that they have two new hotend products for dual extrusion, the Cyclops and the Chimera. Both look intriguing but seem like they would require significant modification to the current extruder carriage. For starters, the...

I converted the top of my system to the 1.5 version but left the bottom the same. What are the benefits of converting the bed pulley system to the new version? I assume that you get more stability but are the overall benefits worth the effort? Thanks, Christian

Wow, that bed looks pretty sophisticated. And your printer is color coordinated with the blue painter's tape, nice. I guess I'll have to start signing off as Christian so folk can tell up apart. Christian

I was going to mount a larger fan the RayWay but my original fan was already wired with a modular plug and I was out of plugs to add to the larger fan. So I printed out the standard shroud and lowered it to the right height by attaching it to a thin plastic extender and then attaching the...

If Ray's machine is FrankinMAX then mine is Bride of FrankinMAX, which I've also dubbed the gMAX 1.25. This started out as a Kickstarter version. I've added a glass bed, the V-rail, the upright columns and an e3D V6 extruder. I've reused some of the original parts so it's not quite a 1.5. Colors...

The print failures are evenly spaced so I would assume that whatever is causing them occurs in a cycle. The 5mm part does not seem to have any problems which makes it harder to diagnose. Maybe the 5mm thickness creates enough of a support barrier to prevent sagging. Or the print time for those...

I'll convert Mikeng's 99% to 100%. The gMAX uses 1.75mm filament. I switched to glass as well and use glue stick to get the PLA to stick to the bed. There are a few posts in this forum regarding how to make this conversion. People have used various thicknesses of glass and have mounted it to...

I can vouch for Ray's comments regarding the E3D hotend. I'm sure the standard Jhead works great on Colorfab PLA and many other filaments. But after buying the cheapest stuff I could find on ebay I suffered through countless jams with the standard Jhead. When I switched to the E3D V6 these...