Search results

First, make sure the fan inside the electronics case is still working. A couple of other things you can do is to make sure the x-axis arm is level to the bed and align the lead screws. Here are the instructions. Make sure the eccentric spacers on the bed and extruder are tight. Here are the...

Have you tried printing one of our test files? You can find them here along with current configuration files.

We are currently working on the dual extruder upgrade. Just waiting on some inventory items to come in before we start releasing it. You will be able to replace the entire tool head with the dual extruder version. You will have to run a motor wire for the second extruder and install a stepper...

We really only recommend going 100c at the highest for the bed. I believe you can print at lower bed temps with the flexible filament. We actually print our flexible print sample on the unheated acrylic sheet. For ABS, do you have the printer in any type of enclosure? Climate control is really...

When printing flexible filament, you will need to slow your print speeds way down. Try starting at 30mm/sec print speed. We have had to use as low as 20mm/sec with some flexible filament in our farm.

After you run the bed leveling and level x-axis arm script, go to Menu<Control<Store Settings. This will save everything to the EEPROM of the printer.

Double-check the set screw on the x-axis motor gear. It could be loose and letting the gear slip on the x-axis motor shaft.

It looks like your extruder is not moving all the way to the right during the level x-axis arm script. That causes the hotend to hit the heated bed before leveling. And this would cause issues with leveling. Is something getting in the way or preventing the extruder from moving all the way to...

Most likely an issue with the z-offset. Follow the instructions here for adjusting the offset. You can also try Menu<Control<Restore Failsafes on the printer. It is basically a factory reset. But wont change the firmware you have installed.

http://forum.gcreate.com/index.php?threads/filament-spool-sensor.1094/

Sorry no. The 2.0 has special side plates that are made for the auto x-axis leveling. Not to mention there are different lead screws, so your z-axis would no longer work right.

Check to make sure the set screws on the x-axis drive gear are still tight. One of the set screws should be screwed into the flat spot on the motor shaft.

They are using a product called geckotek cold. It is similar to buildtak, but we sometimes use the cold version on acrylic bed to print in PETG.

You will need to open the start gcode in your slicing software. And if you have any files you repeatedly print, I would bring the card back to the computer and just open the gcode file in a text editor and manually remove the "g28 x0 y0" and "g29"

Here is the zip file. But we will be unable to give any assistance on modifying or installing the firmware as this will fall outside the scope of tech support since the printer will no longer be in its stock format.

reply email sent

I replied to the email where you asked for the firmware. A zip file is attached to the email.