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I can't speak to the amps required for it to run but I can speak to the LEDs if it is based of the MK1 specifications on the reprap wiki. The LEDs are entirely optional, they are only there as passthroughs not essential to the circuit. They are there to tell you when the bed is on and hot, as a...

If the tip etches the bed then you should sand it to even it out correct, but i'm sure that it would not be too bad.

justdon could you post a picture of the cube I want to see how it came out. if that was fine I don't know what is wrong with how your slicing.

Justdon that looks like the pots are turned a tad low, but i can't tell in which orientation that was sliced so i can't tell you which exactly is off. If the robot was to be printer facing the from of the printer or the back it was you Y pot. I fit was supposed to be printed facing one of the...

I'm glad that it's working that is the same problem i got when they were too high, this merits some sleuthing why it occurs in both directions.

So this looks like the Y potentiometer on your stepper driver is turned too high. The potentiometer is allowing too much current to the stepper driver and with that the driver is over heating. To prevent damage the driver stops itself allowing a little bit of time to cool. When it is cool it...

1) Not for PLA, it is almost one for ABS because without it base layer warping will be very hard to overcome. 2)The Acrylic bed is sanded and as such has excellent adhesion without anything on the bed. 3)The Printer's calibration is covered in the manual at the end...

It is truly a matter of preference, both will put out great looking prints. The .5 will put down more plastic than the .35. The .35 allows for finer control at the cost of print speed. If you are planning on making things for aquariums they will be of a reasonable size so a .5 may be of more...