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No thats not possible, printing via USB works very well for and i start prints straight after the previous one finishes.

The print is probably pthe best way, unless you have a straight edge that you can lay accross to try and check for gaps. I find this one good as it hits all the corners properly, we could model something up no problem if you wanted some serious detail. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:990327...

Dave, one thing to understand about Marlin's Auto Bed Level is it will not compensate for an un-even bed. There is a difference between an un-level and an un-even bed. An un-level bed could be 100% Flat, but still angled slightly from one end to the other, Marlin can compensate for this. However...

From the first video you posted it seems that the Z Min Endstop is already triggered as it attempts to home the Z, this is apparent because the Z Probe SHOULD touch the bed then raise up a few mm and probe again, yours moves up straight away (because it believes it has probed), then does nothing...

Have you checked the settings relating to cooling based on Layer Time?? There are settings that relate to how much the cooling fan is doing if a layer is going to print in under the specified time, this greatly improves quality on smaller parts or small islands on big parts. You should print PLA...

I can understand that. This is why I decided to go for an AC powered heater. Thanks Alex

Mark, This version of ShaqFoo's firmware is considerably superseded now, I would suggest that you could email: Chris@Jank3D.com I believe he has one of the latest versions that utilises Marlin RC-3. Thanks Alex

I have not seen a 1.5+ Extruder Assembly in person but i would assume to you could run a 3.5mm Drill bit through the hole where the filaments feed into. Or bodge the STL and then re-print it.

However one would assume that if the difference was that great between Set Temp and Actual Temp then the printer would stop under Thermal Runaway Protection. Sounds like a configuration error somewhere, check that there isn't more than one set of Print Process Data etc.

I'm interested to see how the kapton heater works out for you. The only bit of solid advice I can give you is to make sure you have a solid 'base bed' and cork insulation. Thanks Alex

Hi PianoPrint, Thank You! Absolutley, my bed system is different to gCreates, im not too sure how the 1.5+ works now. My bed is built as follows from the bottom up: - V-Slot H-Frame Using 8 V Wheels. - 6mm Bakelite / Phenolic Sheet. - 9mm Cork Sheet With Cutout for Heatbed Wiring. - Silicone...

Not for less than 500 i doubt. Unless you skimped out and bought cheap cheap parts, non genuinw v wheels etc, hotend clone etc. I have a bom but its not for the 1.5+, the custom bed and Z brackets will expend your budget nearly alone. Thanks Alex

I have a BOM and have designed parts for a remixed 1.5 if interested. I'm still looking for guinea pigs other than me to build it and give feedback. Message me if interested. Thanks Alex

Replied to your message mate :D Thanks Alex

Hi there, Nice detailed post, I have not seen this problem before or even experienced it myself, however I have never checked my prints for similar problems. First of all, I would make sure that the belts are TIGHT and that the Y Axis Rails are absolutely true to the frame, my first thought...

Haha well that was easy then :lol: Yep it's all good teaching mate keep us updated with awesome prints! Thanks Alex

Hi there, As long as the bed isn't dusty I wouldn't worry about it too much, we have wooden floors in my house so the dust is always floating around, i used to keep a can of air around to blow it off every other day but now i'm not too worried about it haha. The enclosure would need to be quite...

Can you control the temperature and fan speed using the Machine Control Panel in S3D, the control panel where you Jog the Axis and Home etc? Thanks Alex

Hmmm it seems strange that you are having these S3D problems, it should work 'out of the box'. Can you control temp and fan through the S3D control panel? Glad to hear the tape is working good for you. Cheers Alex

Doh! How much infill you printing with? The less infill you have should mean less warping. Cheers Alex