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I don't see the gMax2 printed part stl files anywhere on the website or forum. Did you contact support about the file?

Make sure the vref on the stepper driver for the axis having problems is correct. On my gMax 1.5+ machines the X axis runs around 0.7 to 0.8 volts and the bed is 0.9 or 1 volt. Also, a bad control box fan can cause the drivers to get hot and lose steps.

gMax with a heated bed ship with a glass / PEI bed. They should not be shipping any printers with acrylic. It is terrible. Glass with a sheet of Geckotek Cold would be a much better option.

I had the same problem with both of my 1.5+ machines. It was a combination of problems. The two V slot rails Y rides on were not the correct distance from the outer main frame rails. This was putting the carriage wheels in a bind. That affected the level of the bed carriage as it moved front to...

I'm not sure what kind of glass you are using but if you think 2-3 mm deviation across an 18 inch sheet is ok, your standards are pretty low! DarcyT is running the heated bed so, that borosilicate glass should be pretty flat. I am not sure how gCreate is mounting the silicone heater and glass...

It looks like you are ~3+ mm out across the bed. That isn't good. Have you opened a support ticket with gCreate?

Thanks for the update. I have wondered how the new model was performing for users. You touch on a couple of things that nagged me about this release. Selling it at $4k without a heated bed... A $4k dollar printer should have a heated bed. A printer with a 18 x 18 inch bed should not be...

What is your stored Z offset setting?

I have had Y axis layer shifting problems on both gmaxes I own. In those cases, it was the driver voltage being set to low. I have also had Z axis problems related to a failing control box fan. If you are printing from an SD card, you might try a new one. If you are printing from a PC, you...

I don't see a video but if you have the first layer thickness set to 80% of your nozzle diameter and it is still smashing out a really thin first layer, you probably need to adjust your Z offset.

It looks like you are printing on the stock acrylic bed. Those beds generally are not flat enough to support a 0.1mm first layer height. Try a first layer height of 80% your nozzle diameter. You might also need to adjust your Z offset to move the nozzle away from the bed on the first layer.

Maybe the transfer time on your current unit isn't quite fast enough to keep the ramps board running. Good luck with the new one.

Sorry I didn't see your reply last week. Are you certain the Astroprint device is drawing power from the UPS? I would suggest testing the problem by starting a print and unplugging the UPS from the wall, just to observe what happens. We run our printers on APC 2200VA Smart-UPS and APC...

What caused the print failure? Did the length of the outage exceed the runtime of your UPS? What UPS are you running? We have multiple printers running on several UPS. The only time we have lost prints has been when the UPS batteries run out after 30 minutes or so. I am curious if your print...

Jarhead is correct. Make sure your extruder is moving the length of filament you are commanding it to move. However, even if your extruder is calibrated, having an extrusion width <= the nozzle diameter will likely always degrade print quality.

Try increasing your extrusion width to 0.6mm and running your infill extrusion width at 110%. Print quality will suffer if your extrusion width is <= the nozzle diameter.

Thanks for confirming on a printer in the wild. It amazes me they would not confirm the rail being used since the question was asked in January.

I guess we can infer from this post on IG they are Hiwin rails.

Wow.

Are you replying to the wrong thread or have some messages been deleted?