So, those of you with a heated bed, are you printing ABS? I am 
Ok, so a few observations I have.
use buildtak for ABS . I think the grit of it helps a lot (PEI on the gmax with abs doesnt work well).
Buildtak for abs is the ONLY reason ill use buildtak, as for everything else, i hate it.
That said. I have experimented with 4 brands of ABS filament. The cheap crap that somes with a FFCP printer, Micro Center, some other off brand, and hatchbox.
Hatchbox is the ONLY one I get to stick and not warp. The others are cracking through prints, etc etc etc.
Im sure others work, but hatch does.
Bed at 85.
FAN ON. I know this goes against everything youve ever heard, but fan ON. I run the stock fan on the gmax at 35% starting at layer 3.
245 nozzle. When you run ABS with a fan in an open enclosure you need your filament hot, for good bonding etc.
I have now successfully printed EVERY part of a massive drone project in ABS in a 68 degree room without any warping or cracking of any kind. give it a try.
One last tip... when starting the print, do a couple skirt layers, and use the Z micro tuning to REALLY make the first layer flat. REALLY flat haha.
Hope this helps. For the longest time ive hated ABS, and worked mostly with PETG, but this is bringing me back.. ABS has way more flex than PETG.
Ok, so a few observations I have.
use buildtak for ABS . I think the grit of it helps a lot (PEI on the gmax with abs doesnt work well).
Buildtak for abs is the ONLY reason ill use buildtak, as for everything else, i hate it.
That said. I have experimented with 4 brands of ABS filament. The cheap crap that somes with a FFCP printer, Micro Center, some other off brand, and hatchbox.
Hatchbox is the ONLY one I get to stick and not warp. The others are cracking through prints, etc etc etc.
Im sure others work, but hatch does.
Bed at 85.
FAN ON. I know this goes against everything youve ever heard, but fan ON. I run the stock fan on the gmax at 35% starting at layer 3.
245 nozzle. When you run ABS with a fan in an open enclosure you need your filament hot, for good bonding etc.
I have now successfully printed EVERY part of a massive drone project in ABS in a 68 degree room without any warping or cracking of any kind. give it a try.
One last tip... when starting the print, do a couple skirt layers, and use the Z micro tuning to REALLY make the first layer flat. REALLY flat haha.
Hope this helps. For the longest time ive hated ABS, and worked mostly with PETG, but this is bringing me back.. ABS has way more flex than PETG.