gMax 1.5 and XL

GORDON.LAPLANTE

Administrator
Staff member
#23
Very glad you like it. This makes our day. Let us know of any issues with the files but they should all be fine.

We are working on the dual extruder leveling function as best we can.

You can try using eccentric spacers from openbuilds but you may have to drill out the bolt holes slightly. These will allow you to adjust the v-slot wheel position slightly.

http://openbuildspartstore.com/eccentric-spacers/
 

mwu

New Member
#24
For anyone trying to slice the files x-axis_pulley_side_v1.0.stl, y-axis_belt_v1.0.stl, and y-axis_motor_bracket_v1.0.stl. When these load in slic3r they look like a little dot. That's just because they were exported in inches while slic3r assumes millimeters. It's not a big deal and easily fixed by setting the scale for that part to 2540%.
 
#25
Dear GCreate,
You may not be very good at responding to my Emails but I would rather you spend your time releasing/updateing your design files and uploading tutorials. I am now one step closer to 3d Printing a custom kayak.

Thank you very much. I hope my printer is up for another nighter.
 

GORDON.LAPLANTE

Administrator
Staff member
#26
mwu said:
For anyone trying to slice the files x-axis_pulley_side_v1.0.stl, y-axis_belt_v1.0.stl, and y-axis_motor_bracket_v1.0.stl. When these load in slic3r they look like a little dot. That's just because they were exported in inches while slic3r assumes millimeters. It's not a big deal and easily fixed by setting the scale for that part to 2540%.
Thanks. We will update the files.

When you scale the part up in slic3r make sure to "Export STL" which will save the file at the correct scale.
 
#27
For those that have printed the full set of 1.5 files, can it be done with a single spool of filamanet or does it take more than one?
 
#28
It looks like the z-axis bottom left and right are the same file when I think they should be mirrored. I almost printed two of the same part. If I'm wrong on this let me know. Maybe I messed up somehow when downloading. If they are actual mirrors I can flip it around in software.

Thank you for posting the files Gordon. I've been very happy with the gMAX and am glad that I can upgrade the system with new modifications.

Chris
 
#29
1. Slicing the dual extruder fan shroud isn't flat on the bottom. I removed the bottom .4mm and it printed fine.
2. Do you have the vectors for the new acrylic pieces?
3. Where did you source the aluminum angle brackets for the uprights?
 
#31
I'm still getting all of my 1.5 parts printed off now but viewing each one to see what settings I needed to change for each piece and noticed this. This is inside the X pulley side part. The circled section would just be printing in the air. You could add support but I just wanted it simple. Although it isn't a crucial part to be perfect I still like to prevent little strings of filament hanging off parts if I can. I'm sure Gordon can make his own modified version of the part himself but I will upload it here just in case.
 

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#32
I have been having frequent garbled text on the lcd. I finally figured out it was the static generated by wiping off the bed with a towel after sanding it down. I could very faintly hear the static popping noise while wiping it down. Make sure your machine is in a grounded receptacle. Mine isn't and now I know I need to find a better place to plug mine into.
 

mwu

New Member
#33
I've been looking around and I have found a couple of parts that anyone building the 1.5 extruder might find helpful.


RJ45 keystones (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=1070763) are something most people have available to them in hardware or electronics stores (I easily found keystones in Lowes and Home Depot), but the electronics cover is not designed to fit them. I have altered the cover so that a keystone will clip into it, but I haven't been able to print it off to test it yet. Once I have I'll post the alteration if anyone is interested.
 
#34
I built the 1.5 double extruder yesterday. It doesn't wobble/ tilt like the old one did because the wheels are tight on the track. Very important.

I've been using a 5015S fan from China. It was a few bucks on ebay. Same "squirrel cage" construction as yours but smaller output rectangle and not as much airflow as I'd like.

There's a few suppliers for "rj45 breakout screw terminal" but they are all in that price range.

Monoprice has every keystone jack imaginable and at a better price. It's how I made extension boxes for USB and Audio for my desktop. Also they are the source for cheap network cables and every other cable in existence.
 
#35
Mwu- I'm interested in a cover modified to hold a pair of keystones if possible. I'll be building mine for the pair of E3d heads I'm sitting on. Just a matter of getting around to it...
 

mwu

New Member
#36
I finally managed to print the electronics cover this morning (my printer is at the office which I couldn't get into over the weekend -- need to check my card). Everything worked well on the first try. I've got some pictures of it at https://plus.google.com/photos/10819818 ... 3960569569. I'm also attaching the files.

I modeled everything in OpenScad and I am including the OpenScad files as well as the resulting stl file. The OpenScad files rely on the single / dual extruder electronics cover stl files in the gMax 1.5 extruder zip file.

I am just building the single extruder for now so I did not test the dual extruder electronics cover. I did create the OpenScad file for the dual extruder and it should be easy to modify it if any tweaks need to be made.

At the bottom of the scad files there is a commented out section that is a block which represents the size of the keystone I have. It is a tight fit and does require a slight flex of the cover to fit the keystone in. Since it is a tight fit, I suggest getting all the wiring together and test fitting everything before punching the wires onto the keystone and connecting the keystone to the cover. If necessary, the cover can be modified to bring the keystone up higher.

If you plug the keystone in the wrong way it won't fit quite right, and won't stay put. If that happens, just flip the keystone around and clip it in the other way.
 

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#37
Having a previos job doing telecommunications cabling I never thought of a keystone jack. I was trying to figure out something like a ribbon cable that had more wires. A dual keystone I would be set.
 

mwu

New Member
#38
The gMax 1.5 uses just one keystone for both the single and dual extruder setups. The connector has the fan, LED, and one or two thermistors wired through it depending on whether it is for the single or dual extruder. I am guessing you want to put the extruder motors through a second keystone since I think the heater cartridges need more current than a keystone can handle. That does sound like a cool idea as it would reduce the bundle running to the extruder a little bit for a dual extruder.
 
#39
I was actually thinking the second keystone would be for the additional 2 fans that are on the E3d hot ends. My intention is to wire switches onto the LED and each of the E3d fans as the fans only need to be used when that extruder is running. I also want to be able to switch the LED's off while printing; no reason for them to be one when the printer is running overnight and nobody is their watching it...
 
#40
crussell said:
I was actually thinking the second keystone would be for the additional 2 fans that are on the E3d hot ends. My intention is to wire switches onto the LED and each of the E3d fans as the fans only need to be used when that extruder is running. I also want to be able to switch the LED's off while printing; no reason for them to be one when the printer is running overnight and nobody is their watching it...
In the firmware, there is a configuration advanced file. In there you can specify "extruder fans", which are exactly what the fans on the E3D are. You'll need to specify an unused pin and hook up a transistor/ mosfet to it, but the idea is that the firmware will only turn on that particular fan when its corresponding extruder is above a temp threshold (40 degrees C by default).

For the LEDs, a toggle switch is the way to go.