Glass Bed Attachment.

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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby sherpa_chris » Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:14 pm

In the last posts I credited the Don for the glass bed upgrade. I just realized it was Justin. Sorry Justin, great design. Thanks for the inspiration.

Chris
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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby raykholo » Mon Jul 14, 2014 9:54 am

Seconded. I like it so much it's part of the new printer I'm designing.
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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby konton » Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:59 am

Awww, thanks guys. Well yer making me feel bad cause I did more and didn't tell anyone.

I don't know about any of you, but after a while my bed goes off the v-slot track because that acrylic piece that is pulled by the y-axis starts to bend. That means the x-axis is not level, or the y-axis, because it's not sliding correctly. And I'm always trying to level the bed again or retighten parts to resolve it.

Well I got tired of it and decided there had to be a way to fix the acrylic piece. I was going to replace it. But I didn't know where to go or how to make sure I drilled the holes at exactly the right places. Then I decided rather than replace it, I could strengthen it.

IMG_1555.JPG
IMG_1555.JPG (151.57 KiB) Viewed 3405 times


I have a bunch of misumi 1515 t-slots all 240mm. I took two and screwed them in horizontally where the L-channel was for most of you (which I replaced with a c-channel). I then screwed the c-channel on top. This keeps the acrylic of being able to bend.

I'm sure there are easier or better ways to do this. But I was just using what I had around the house to resolve the issue. I hope it helps someone.

Justin
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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby konton » Wed Jul 16, 2014 3:48 pm

Ouch. Okay, I just saw the photos. What happened to the glass? Seriously, picture frame spring and c-channel. Replace that glass! I am using double strength. Lowes doesn't sell it but True Value hardware does and they cut as well. However 3/16 will be sure the glass won't bend. I just didn't want the weight. I'm reconsidering.

Justin
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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby sherpa_chris » Thu Jul 17, 2014 10:12 am

What happened to the glass? Seriously, picture frame spring and c-channel. Replace that glass!


If you are referring to my crooked glass, I just used an old piece I had laying around. Looks = 0 but functionality = 10. I bought a new, 18" X 18" piece that I'll put on when I get the chance. The picture frame springs seem like a great way to hold the glass in place but they make it cumbersome to remove the glass sheet. If I'm having trouble removing a print I like to take the glass off so I don't have to jostle the printer. Plus, I can easily swap in a smaller piece of glass for most prints that don't need the entire build space. The reduces bed weight. There are many ways to skin a cat. In this case it looks like we've both figured out a way to make a glass bed work.

Chris
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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby DonHanson » Sat Aug 02, 2014 8:54 pm

Upgraded to glass bed and U-channel supports, then added aluminum support plate to fix the bed wobble as it reversed Y direction.

Glass_bed.jpg
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Now I'm having zero luck getting the first layer to stick. Gave it a try for a few days, then ordered the 18 x 18 Monster Heated bed. :-)
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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby raykholo » Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:00 pm

Glue stick, my friend. A light coat and print the first layer at 210. The higher you go, the better the adhesion. I'm printing fairly well onto a cold bed at 230. 210 worked for me also, but the Z-height had to be fairly accurate.

And Don, I'm glad to see a printer that is living room-compatible. :)
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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby crussell » Wed Sep 17, 2014 11:27 pm

For any of you fella's printing on glass, are you having any problems with the first layers warping? I'm using glue stick for adhesion, but if I try to print anything flat larger than about 3" it starts curling up and warping badly. Wasn't having the issue on sanded plexi so wondering if there is a trick I'm missing.

Thanks!
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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby sherpa_chris » Thu Sep 18, 2014 10:57 pm

Are you printing with PLA or ABS? I converted to a glass bed a couple of months back but I still print on thin acrylic that I tape or clamp to the glass. This hybrid method takes advantage of the sticking power of the acrylic and the flatness of the glass. The acrylic I'm using is very thin, cut from the protective covering from an old framed poster. It's easy to take off so I can forcefully scrape off a print away from the printer. I can also bend it which helps pop off a print. If I break the acrylic, there are plenty of replacement frames sitting at the Goodwill.

Using PLA and a print above say 5", I really need to hold down this thin acrylic. The print sticks so well that it bends any lightly secured acrylic right off the glass. But if I clamp everything down, it works great. This doesn't directly answer your question but at least lets you know that you are not alone when I comes to removing prints from acrylic. My scarred fingers are testament. In one second you are forcing the razor blade under the print and in the next you've almost cut off your finger. That's why I switched to this hybrid system but I still have problems from time to time.

Chris
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Re: Glass Bed Attachment.

Postby crussell » Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:41 pm

Chris,

I'm printing purely PLA. No problems with warpage when I use the thin layer of plexi like you are doing, only when I print directly on the glass with using a thing layer from a gluestick.

No razor blade cuts for me yet, but I did get a nice burn from the glass when the heated nozzle sat on it for about 15 mins. I was doing some last minute adjustments when I stopped a failed print and startled over so the nozzle was right on the glass. I stepped away to take a phone call and forgot all about it. 15 mins later, thing was freaking HOT!!!

- Other Chris
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