Layers Shifting

not getting consistent results

calibration steps

So I had the same layer shifting on the Y-Axis and first tried to tighten all mechanical parts to make sure there wasn't something wrong. Then I tried the potentiometer and broke them. Then I got new drivers and recalibrated. Nothing on the machine seemed to fix the problem. Even moving it to a more secure location. I just kept getting heaving jerking on the Y-Axis.

Then I updated slic3r. I'm now using 1.1.6 stable on my Mac. I changed the settings to EXPERT mode under preferences. And I loaded and saved the Gmax slic3r configs for Print Settings: 05mm High Quality, Filament: Colorbfabb, and Printer: Single 0.5mm Nozzle. I made sure under platter these were the setting listed before exporting the G-code to the SD card.

That did it. I'm pretty sure it had something to do with the Speed values under Print Settings. But that got it all working at 100% speed. Before that had to run it at 60% to get it to not shift.

I hope this helps. Have a happy 4th of July!

Justin

Thanks Justin, I will give this a try

I dont know what happened but it started printing the first layer then moved to the left and appeared to begin printing the object next to where it initially started. Once it moves to the left the extruder stops rotating. And thats objects that have been sliced with the new slic3r configurations. When I go to a object that was done with the previous slic3r configurations the extruder doesnt move at all...this is becoming a nightmare!

Update...
I have the dual extruder printer. And it looks like the for some reason the new configuration i loaded is slicing the objects to be printed with both extruders. Im not sure why. To make matters worst the prints are still printing with shifting layers :x :x :x :cry: :cry: :cry: Im not sure what else to do with this thing.

Ha! That happened to me on a very specific new slic3r file. I think it was 1.1.2. Certain versions of slic3r do not work with the config files. Are you on a Mac? Just checking because I know there were previous issues and I don't know if Windows still have them or not.

I have a dual extruder as well. But I still use the Single 0.5mm Nozzle profile for now until I'm ready to use both.

So which OS are you on, which version of slic3r are you using, and which version of the config files did you download?

Justin

Im on a Mac aswell, using Mavericks. Im also using slic3r 1.1.6, and I downloaded 00 - Slic3r 1.0.1 GMax 140504.



By the way, what do you have put in for bed size, print center and z offset? Im trying to enter part of the configuration in manually.
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Actually...if anybody has a working dual extruder configuration in slic3r could you please post like a screen shot of what u have in Print Settings,Filament Settings and Printer Settings? It would very much appreciated!


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As im thinking about it there also has to be something wrong somewhere with the hardware if im not able to print the sample object given by Gordon on the download page that has already been sliced correctly. For example, knowing that the sample Gordon has given to print was sliced and coded correctly to work. I just tried to print it twice and without making any changes to the potentiometers or or any. It just printed it completely different in completely different areas of the bed so clearly theres something wrong with the hardware as well as slic3r

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Does anyone know of anything on the LCD settings that could have this effect on the printing? Maybe in the "control" area?

Gmax Build manual states:

You can either ignore the setup and load our default cong les instead, or use the values below:
When conguring slic3r use the following information:
1. Firmware type: RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter)
2. Bed size: x: 410 y:410
3. Nozzle diameter: Depends on what was ordered with your printer. Most likely 0.5mm
4. Filament diameter: 1.75mm
5. Extrusion temperature: 200C
6. Bed temperature: 0C

I did this, but honestly it was why I had problem. I had to slow the system down to 60%, or in expert mode change all the speed settings under acceleration control down to 500.



Sorry. There are too many advanced setting to show you them all. That's what the config files are for.

Did you play with the controls on the gmax screen? You can always set them back to the original settings. It under CONTROL -> RESTORE FAILSAFE.

Justin

Thank you Justin! I will give this a try. I did play around with the settings on the LCD but it didnt help. Hopefully these slic3r configurations will!!!

Unfortunately it didnt help :cry: thanks though

It looks like it is skipping steps. I haven't received my printer yet but came across this page and I think skipping steps in the link below looks like your problem. Hope it helps. http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troublesho ... rial_Guide

Thanks for the link Kelley! Unfortunately I actually go to that site a couple times a week reading that skipping steps part over and over again hoping i missed something but havent had any luck. Thanks for your help though!

I'm theorizing that is has to be related to the stepper drivers. I haven't had this problem once and I'm using cheap stepper drivers from China. Someone care to buy some and test everything out?

These are the ones that I got: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs...nk-Free-Shipping-Dropshipping/1314711009.html
and they're actually half the price of what I paid for them a few months ago.. SO I shall be buying more soon.

FYI shipping takes a few weeks and most credit cards charge foreign transaction fees so be aware of that or get one that doesn't.

Hey Ray,

I dont want to jump the gun just yet or jinx anything but so since yesterday Ive been printing objects with success. I would love to tell everyone what I did exactly to fix the problem or what the problem was. But I honestly dont know. Basically, I started fiddling with it yesterday still getting the same bad results and in my frustration I began to do many different things. Prior to my frustration boiling over, I was having problems with slic3r, and I attempted to fix my printing problems by slowing down the print and acceleration. When that didnt work, in my frustration began taking the printer apart to check the belt and the rails because something sounded like it was coming loose. Once the print was reassembled still frustrated I literally did a blind turn to the Y axis potentiometer, made some more adjustments to the LCD screen (nothing thought out just trying some new stuff) and began printing the 20mm cube. Now what I did worked because my cube printed perfectly. I then went on to print something else because in the past its printed the cube just fine and then malfunctioned. So I start printing the calibration cubes which to my surprise was also printing well. It was a little sloppy so my frustration kicking back in I for decided to crank up the speed from 50% to 80% and began looking better so i brought it up to 110% and looked even better! With the new success I printed some little toy figure which also came out well. So it seems that my troubles may finally be over! (fingers crossed) but to make sure im still printing different objects just to be safe. Still not sure what I did to truly fix it but Im not changing anymore settings. I reverted to an older version of slic3r and now it too is working properly.

Thank you to Ray and everyone, who has helped me through this giant learning curve and getting my printer up and running!!! Still testing to make sure it doesnt go back to its old ways like its done before, but hopefully it will continue to print properly!

Glad to hear it's up and running! I can't even guess where the disconnect was. You made mechanical, electrical, and interface adjustments all at once. So who knows. But it's working and that's what matters!

Justin

I think that the sprinkle of Artificial Intelligence they put in the official Arduinos is messing with you guys.

I wish you would have figured this problem out. My printer works great for the first few layers... then it just shifts drastically out of no where. I am not about to go throwing a handful of darts with my eyes closed though. I have been messing with the potentiometer for the y-axis driver. The driver gets puurty damn hot and sounds like "pacman with lung cancer". This helped a lot with the little shifts I was having. I have loosened up on the y-axis rails so the wheels are more free. Next option is to try a different version of slicer.

Is moving the bed manually when its off bad for the printer? I noticed if you do it too fast the LCD screen lights up... probably not a good thing.

I can only really help with the manual movement of the bed. My boss' Mendel does that, but they do recommend manual movement of the bed when leveling it. I believe what is happening is that the Y-axis motor basically acts as a generator and sends a small current into the board and the rest of the electronics.

Can it damage anything? I don't know enough electronics to know for sure, but I would guess not. You're most likely not going to generate any more energy manually turning the motor than is put through it when the printer is on and running.

I got my players to be very even by setting all of my acceleration settings to 450. It is much slower though. Any recomendations for acceleration settings? I also had my rails too far apart adding too much friction.

Just uploaded the latest slicer config from GCreate. About to try them out.