Frustrated with brand new printer!

#1
Couple of issues I am having and honestly.....

I'm having failure more consistent than success with my printer. As I'm writing this I'm halfway through a large print (@ 25hrs mark) and my e3d v6 hotend has stopped extruding, again. I quickly was able to use the "Change Filament" command and pull back the cold filament, cut back the damaged area, then reinsert. It currently is extruding however I've missed what looks to be 2 layers?

Just yesterday the print failed on a different model where halfway into the print it quit moving completely and just melted a hole into the model. (This happened overnight for who knows how long). Last week I had major stepping issues with different models failing at different times.

Lastly when a print does finally complete, the rubber grommets holding the lead screws prevent the extruder from triggering the end stop... How long it last before some fail safe kicks in I'm unaware of but it surely is more than a couple of seconds as that is how long it took for me to realize what was happening.

After speaking with support, I removed a faulty driver and hooked up the fan to the 12v power. That seemed to have fixed the issue for shorter prints (12hrs) but as I am finding to be the case with this printer is that it will fail again once I'm deep into another print.

So, I now have a brand new printer that cost quite a bit of money with the reliability of an "E-bay clone" that only has one (possibly good) working driver, an extremely loud fan, and not to mention that the poly-carbonate bed itself has small areas of warpage.

The models I'm printing aren't even in high detail or needing of constant retraction. I've tried two different brands of filament consisting of 5 different spools. I'm using simplify 3d with the settings that Gcreate supplied, only tailoring them to my model needs.

If anyone can help to point in the right direction on what steps are next, I would greatly appreciate it.
 
#2
flrock said:
Couple of issues I am having and honestly.....

I'm having failure more consistent than success with my printer. As I'm writing this I'm halfway through a large print (@ 25hrs mark) and my e3d v6 hotend has stopped extruding, again. I quickly was able to use the "Change Filament" command and pull back the cold filament, cut back the damaged area, then reinsert. It currently is extruding however I've missed what looks to be 2 layers?

Just yesterday the print failed on a different model where halfway into the print it quit moving completely and just melted a hole into the model. (This happened overnight for who knows how long). Last week I had major stepping issues with different models failing at different times.

Lastly when a print does finally complete, the rubber grommets holding the lead screws prevent the extruder from triggering the end stop... How long it last before some fail safe kicks in I'm unaware of but it surely is more than a couple of seconds as that is how long it took for me to realize what was happening.

After speaking with support, I removed a faulty driver and hooked up the fan to the 12v power. That seemed to have fixed the issue for shorter prints (12hrs) but as I am finding to be the case with this printer is that it will fail again once I'm deep into another print.

So, I now have a brand new printer that cost quite a bit of money with the reliability of an "E-bay clone" that only has one (possibly good) working driver, an extremely loud fan, and not to mention that the poly-carbonate bed itself has small areas of warpage.

The models I'm printing aren't even in high detail or needing of constant retraction. I've tried two different brands of filament consisting of 5 different spools. I'm using simplify 3d with the settings that Gcreate supplied, only tailoring them to my model needs.

If anyone can help to point in the right direction on what steps are next, I would greatly appreciate it.
Always hard to know what the problem can be, but extrusion issues can come from a wide range of things.
But to be able to at least help with some thinking about what it can be:

Are you printing over USB, SD or Through for example Octoprint?

I would start with some "known to print well" models, and get a good consistency with those before continuing with your own models. If you for example can print sample gcodes that I assume are shipped with the printer over and over again, that would be a good starting point, if you cant even print those its a hardware calibration issue probably.
 
#3
Hi, thank you for the response. I'm currently printing from SD card (provided by gCreate) and have printed good working models with failure and success both on the same model. I'll try printing tethered but only after support gets back to me as I've wasted so much material with this. Also the model that I was talking about on the original post actually warped pretty bad because of the missing layers.
 
#4
flrock said:
Hi, thank you for the response. I'm currently printing from SD card (provided by gCreate) and have printed good working models with failure and success both on the same model. I'll try printing tethered but only after support gets back to me as I've wasted so much material with this. Also the model that I was talking about on the original post actually warped pretty bad because of the missing layers.
Ok, I just unboxed mine, and the Y frame is loose, with some loose parts in the box, (two rubber wheels) so I assume that they should hold the bed. Only 4 rubber wheels assembled in total now.. Not sure if they should be assembled diagonal front/back on the inside of the rails or how they should be mounted.
 
#5
oneaday said:
Ok, I just unboxed mine, and the Y frame is loose, with some loose parts in the box, (two rubber wheels) so I assume that they should hold the bed. Only 4 rubber wheels assembled in total now.. Not sure if they should be assembled diagonal front/back on the inside of the rails or how they should be mounted.
On my printer, there are 3 sets of wheels on each side. There should be 2 wheels on the outside of the Y-Axis rail and one mounted on the inside. Coming from the bed frame is a bolt followed by a nut, then a nylon washer, wheel and bearing, finished with a lock nut. The pattern is staggered with the inner bearing being centered on the bed. I also had to turn one of my lead screws in order to level the rail which unfortunately doesn't help the issue with the warped acrylic.

I'm attempting to print this final part again and still waiting for a response from support on why it completely quit functioning :x
 
#6
flrock said:
oneaday said:
Ok, I just unboxed mine, and the Y frame is loose, with some loose parts in the box, (two rubber wheels) so I assume that they should hold the bed. Only 4 rubber wheels assembled in total now.. Not sure if they should be assembled diagonal front/back on the inside of the rails or how they should be mounted.
On my printer, there are 3 sets of wheels on each side. There should be 2 wheels on the outside of the Y-Axis rail and one mounted on the inside. Coming from the bed frame is a bolt followed by a nut, then a nylon washer, wheel and bearing, finished with a lock nut. The pattern is staggered with the inner bearing being centered on the bed. I also had to turn one of my lead screws in order to level the rail which unfortunately doesn't help the issue with the warped acrylic.

I'm attempting to print this final part again and still waiting for a response from support on why it completely quit functioning :x

Alright thats what I assumed, I searched through my box and found ONE screw, so I assembled one of the wheels at least, on the inside of the left Y -axis rail (so I have two wheels on the inside and one on the outside. it feels totally stable now though, so I will assemble the other one if I can get hold of a new screw, or get one sent from gcreate. And maybe move the other to the outside then.. Mounted the heated bed and it seems to work as it should.

Tested to print the gcreate keyring, and that worked out fine, after that I hooked up the printer to my OctoPi and tried to start a print slic3d with S3D and the gcreate profiles, when it did the initial bed leveling process it totally missed the bed in the front row though, causing the nozzle to hit the bed before I killed the printer, really strange. After that I tried to print the keyring again but it still probes 5mm in front of the bed...

Will go to sleep now, continue tomorrow..
 
#7
oneaday said:
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.....After that I tried to print the keyring again but it still probes 5mm in front of the bed...
Okay good luck. Keep in mind you only have 14 days from arrival to return this and if you're using the printer to its "possible" potential that time can be eaten up with only a few models. I would absolutely contact them now to insure that any issues are addressed within their 14 day period in order to save yourself if you do need to return due to unresolved problems outside of that window.
 
#8
flrock said:
oneaday said:
[
.....After that I tried to print the keyring again but it still probes 5mm in front of the bed...
Okay good luck. Keep in mind you only have 14 days from arrival to return this and if you're using the printer to its "possible" potential that time can be eaten up with only a few models. I would absolutely contact them now to insure that any issues are addressed within their 14 day period in order to save yourself if you do need to return due to unresolved problems outside of that window.

Yes they are contacted :)

And I found the issue, the wheel I assembled triggered the endstop ofc :D Stupid me!
I've mounted one of the wheels to the outside, still missing one screw but I can source it locally!

but I guess the wheels should align like this?
 
#9
Just started a 10 hour print, will see how that goes, if I can see any issues with prints being canceled/stopped mid print.
Sounds like a sensor/termistor issue maybe... Are you using an e3D hotend or the Jhead? If the E3D are you using the silicon soc?

my biggest concerns now is the settings in the slicer provided by gCreate, I've never seen a first layer with 250% thickness and extra extrusion width. My first layer is printing at Z=0.7 now and it looks very sloppy, this will cause alot of nozzledrag for the next layer. And the amount of plastic that needs to be extruded causes some occasional skipping grinding/skipping.

I THINK that this is to be able to print even if the bed is a bit uneven, but I will probably tune that down to what I'm used to with my PRUSA MK2's. Where I print my first layer 90% lower than the rest.

I'm now raising the temp on the nozzle and lowering the first layer speed ALOT to make sure that I'll dont get any feeding issues. Next print will be with revised settings for the first layer indeed.

Best Regards Patrik
 
#10
oneaday said:
Sounds like a sensor/termistor issue maybe... Are you using an e3D hotend or the Jhead? If the E3D are you using the silicon soc?

my biggest concerns now is the settings in the slicer provided by gCreate, I've never seen a first layer with 250% thickness and extra extrusion width. My first layer is printing at Z=0.7 now and it looks very sloppy, this will cause alot of nozzledrag for the next layer. And the amount of plastic that needs to be extruded causes some occasional skipping grinding/skipping.

I THINK that this is to be able to print even if the bed is a bit uneven, but I will probably tune that down to what I'm used to with my PRUSA MK2's. Where I print my first layer 90% lower than the rest.

I'm now raising the temp on the nozzle and lowering the first layer speed ALOT to make sure that I'll dont get any feeding issues. Next print will be with revised settings for the first layer indeed.

Best Regards Patrik
Yes, that diagram is exactly the wheel placement I have.

I am using the E3D V6 hotend with the attached silicon sock. I have no doubt that the 1st layer extruding settings are to fill in any warpage in the acrylic bed. Once my first layer is down I've been using babystep-Z on the second to limit the nozzle drag, that for the most part is completely gone by the 3rd layer. I'm sure I am having more issues using this acrylic bed than if it were glass but I'm not spending anymore coin until things with this machine are addressed. Since you're using the glass heatbed, I think reducing the amount of plastic you're extruding is a smart idea.