gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby santiclause » Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:02 am

that worked to get rid of the clicking/ extruder not being able to be pushed out sound; however it seems like I get a perfect first line with my skirt and first lines of the 1st layer, but then on the 2nd layer I can kinda still hear it rub across the 1st layer...I'm affraid that if I adjust the z axis endstop again I'll loose my perfect 1st layer. I can live with it, but I just don't want my extruder to come loose or something over time, or I'm not sure am I just a hair off or something?

Also I still haven't gotten simplify to tell me extruders to lift before heating, but as long as my extruders aren't right down on the bed or homed before I hit the print button, I can still use simplify because it heats it off the bed, then homes, and goes straight to print.

I find myself with a pair of pliers before every print, grabbing the oozeing pla from the extruder right before it touches the bed to begin the print to avoid it dragging it over to the center and messing up my first layer. Is there a way to stop the filament from oozing out like that everytime while it's heating up?
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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby AlexD » Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:23 am

I get that too, reducing the first layer thickness seemed to help for me, however then you compromise the first layer adhesion. Personally it doesn't bother me, i don't think theres enough stress to affect the hotend?
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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby santiclause » Thu Jun 11, 2015 4:58 am

Yea my first layer thickness is 125% I thought about going to 100 and see what that does. I don't think it could mess with the hotend, but overtime it might wiggle the clamp that holds the hot end still loose?

I have another question: after my print is done, my fan runs 100% i think to cool the hotend back down...well when my hotend is cooled down to 26 degrees I think it is... my fan keeps running..I only ask this because if I start a print before I go to bed, I don't want my fan running 100% all night...is there a way my fan can turn off once my extruders reach the cooled down temp?
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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby santiclause » Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:20 am

Hey kyle, here is an image of an egg I printed, you can see the layer shifting or horizontal banding...before I was just seeing small vertical banding on my 20mm cubes, but this shows I think horizontal banding as well..any ideas?
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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby santiclause » Thu Jun 11, 2015 5:22 am

Here is the egg .stl file it's meant to be around 3 to 4'' tall, just encase you decide you want to try and print it yourself and need to know the scale

just in case the file didn't load, here is dropbox link to it:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/00t0omno2e998 ... e.stl?dl=0
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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby gCreate_Kyle » Thu Jun 11, 2015 2:05 pm

HI Santa,
Tighten up the hotend swing arm. Your horizontal banding is probably from the hotend being loose.

The vertical banding is from backlash or recoil (depending on which word you prefer). This is caused by a loose belt or too much friction. I had a piece of plastic stuck in my carriage once and the banding was extreme. The wheel bearings will break in over time which helps to reduce the back lash.

You can also reduce the perimeter acceleration settings in your slicing software.
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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby santiclause » Fri Jun 12, 2015 10:03 pm

Hi, could you describe to me how to tighten the extruder swing arm? my belts were pretty tight I thought, but maybe I had to much friction on my vwheels, I loosened the right carrige bar and brought it closer to the other carriage bar only by 1/8'' that was as much as I could go before the v wheels wanted to drop out of the little channel they are suppose to ride along.

so I did that, and I also took off the tensioner springs on both belts then pulled the belts taught and tightened them without the springs.

it seems like there was more tension or resistence on the right side of what I think is my extruder arm than the left side...I think this has something to do with the spring that is inside the assembly with the threaded z rods. I tried to adjust the acme nuts and things to get a bit more tension on the spring, I think I did but I'm not sure lol.

I seem to have a new problem now though. After making all these adjustments, I turned on my printer and I got the Err: min temp error ...I took a look at some things, and disconected and re connected what I think the manual says is the connections for both the thermisistors...they seemed to look fine and fit fine. My left extruder says 0 and my right one seems fine. Here is an image of the only thing I can think may be wrong, it's a little dark area under the capton tape...any ideas!!!?
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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby santiclause » Fri Jun 12, 2015 10:08 pm

dark area?
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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby shaqFoo » Sun Jun 14, 2015 4:02 am

santiclause wrote:that worked to get rid of the clicking/ extruder not being able to be pushed out sound; however it seems like I get a perfect first line with my skirt and first lines of the 1st layer, but then on the 2nd layer I can kinda still hear it rub across the 1st layer...I'm affraid that if I adjust the z axis endstop again I'll loose my perfect 1st layer. I can live with it, but I just don't want my extruder to come loose or something over time, or I'm not sure am I just a hair off or something?

Also I still haven't gotten simplify to tell me extruders to lift before heating, but as long as my extruders aren't right down on the bed or homed before I hit the print button, I can still use simplify because it heats it off the bed, then homes, and goes straight to print.

I find myself with a pair of pliers before every print, grabbing the oozeing pla from the extruder right before it touches the bed to begin the print to avoid it dragging it over to the center and messing up my first layer. Is there a way to stop the filament from oozing out like that everytime while it's heating up?


The hotend should not be dragging on the previously printed layer. This means the z stop is still a little off and your hotend is still too close to the bed. You said adjusting it made the clicking go away and the filament is now coming out and it 'seems' like a perfect first layer. Try raising it a little more and you should see a much better first layer and that should eliminate the drag on previously printed layer. You do not want any mechanical stress on your hot end and continued rubbing of the hot end over cold plastic (previous layers) will cause the whole carriage to raise slightly to get over the plastic or force the hot end through it which WILL loosen the clamp over time. When it happens once or twice it's no big deal, but when it occurs over and over again over multi hour prints, it will loosen the clamp. Better to adjust your endstop/fix the problem then to 'live with it'.

FYI - I print my first layer widths between 120-150% depending on the print/object size. First layer height at 110% They are nice fat tracks. I print directly on unheated 2.5 mm glass from home depot with Aquanet hairspray as a bed adhesive. I also use a 2 loop brim for better first layer adhesion. This is accomplished by going to the additions tab in Simplify and entering:

1 for skirt layers,
0 for skirt offset and
2 for brim loops. This will give you 2 nice outer loops that get laid down first with your object then printed in the confines of the loop. The 2 loops are easily removed from the print by simply peeling them off. In the injection molding world, its commonly known as flashing. With PLA, I've found those settings to be optimal.

I use Simplify3D almost exclusively now. The issue you're having is not in your starting gCode block but rather in the temperature settings . Double click the process and go to the Temperature tab. Uncheck 'wait for temperature to stabilize before beginning build'. This is what is causing your issue. Simplify will insert an M109 Sxxx Txxx command BEFORE your starting gCode block. This causes the nozzle to wait until the specified temperature is reached before your starting gCode is executed.

After you uncheck the box that should solve the problem of the nozzles not raising before heating but that now creates the opportunity for the printer to start printing before the nozzles get to temperature and if the nozzles are not hot enough the printer will prevent a cold extrude but will continue processing the code without spitting out any plastic. In essence, that's bad so we need to reintroduce the M109 in the starting gCode.

This is what your staring gCode should look like. A line beginning with a semi colon is not processed and any comments after a semi colon are ignored.



G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107; Fan off or M106 S0 works too.
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
G92 E0
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
M204 S500; Set default acceleration (I keep my accelleration pretty low)
G28; Home all
G1 Z5; Raise nozzle 5 mm
M109 S199 T0 ;wait for extruder to reach target temp before continuing. (change 199 to the desired target temperature value)


It's difficult to stop the hotend ooze completely but you could create a small wipe routine that primes and cleans the nozzles right before the print starts. This is done with gCode commands to move the hotend to an unused portio n of the bed (rear corner) at a very low height to wipe away the oozing filment right after the M109 has completed.


Hope this helps.


ShaqFoo
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Re: gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

Postby shaqFoo » Wed Jun 17, 2015 6:23 pm

SantiClause,

Did unchecking the boxes work for you? (see my post above). By unchecking the boxes S3D will not insert any gCode (M109 commands) ahead of your starting gCode. If you don't you will have to wait for the hotends to heat then YOUR code starts to execute.

It took me a bit to learn S3D and I got frustrated with it numerous times. In the end, it was operator error. (i.e. I didn't know what the bleep I was doing).

I found the best way to figure out what everything does is just play and tweak stuff. - turn it up to 11. (old Spinal Tap reference).
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