My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

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Re: My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

Postby AlexD » Wed Dec 30, 2015 8:58 am

I watched the vid thanks! How fast are you printing there??

Yeah either flip the motor connector or swap the direction in the firmware? Had this problem on mine when i built it, in the end i had another problem, the axis was moving the right way (or so i thought) but actually then what happened was that all my prints were being printed Mirrored on the Y Axis! In the end i had 2 variables that had to be paired correctly:

- Y Axis movement direction (Flip in the firmware or flip the connector)
- Y Axis Homing Direction, mine now works that when it is homed it is actually -420mm.


I think this is the same for the stock gMax too, its because the bed homes towards the front of the printer frame, this isn't conventional and usually a printer would home to the rear, meaning that the front left of the bed was Home.

So if you wanted you could also make the printer home to the rear, its just a pain when the print finishes and you have to jog the bed to the front to remove your print.

Other than that the printer looks great!

Hope that helps, oh yeah i wanted to ask, could you upload or point me in the direction of you RAMPS mount?? I want to mount mine the same, currently its in a big ugly box.

Thanks

Alex
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Re: My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

Postby konton » Wed Dec 30, 2015 11:23 pm

Looks like the Y_MAX_POS was causing the issue. It needs to be at least 220. Any idea why or how to change it?

Other than that, everything is calibrated and ready to go.
Image
Image

I attached the file. I think. I hope it helps!

Justin
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Re: My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

Postby AlexD » Thu Jan 07, 2016 4:35 pm

Hiya mate, sorry for the late reply, im not quite surewhat you mean when you say it needs to be a minimum of 220??

The file works great thank you! It finally gave me an exscuse to semi tidy the wiring and move the ramps box off of my desk.

Image

Image

Image

Theres a few pics of how it sits now.

Cheers

Alex
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Re: My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

Postby PianoPrint » Mon Feb 08, 2016 12:48 am

Alex,
I like your heated bed solution. I would like to learn more about it. I have the early version of the gMax 1.0 that I have upgraded to the new gMax 1.5 plus bed as well as printed a few side support parts to stiffen up the frame, because the early version 1.0 was very flimsy. I have it now where I can print 60 microns with no problems. I have upgraded to the Gmax 1.5 plus firmware, but had to make changes in the code to make it work. I also calibrated with a micrometer the x, y, and the z axis to make sure that were all perpendicular to each other as before my prints were were coming out with strange dimensions. Any way, I'm happy now, but I started to print parts to upgrade the printer frame to the 1.5 +,but I want to get the head auto level, and a heated bed on this new build.

The new code of the gMax 1.5 + has provisions for auto-bed-level, so that is encouraging.

How many watts is your silicone heated mat? Is is heavy? Are you running an external power supply with a relay? How many watts is the power supply, or are you running directly from the main outlet (220 or 110v).

I would be interested to hear your approach.

I have been debating on a PCB or silicone mat for some time. i know the PCB are lighter, but can bow when heated if they are made with bad quality material.

Thanks
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Re: My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

Postby AlexD » Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:12 am

Hi PianoPrint,

Thank You! Absolutley, my bed system is different to gCreates, im not too sure how the 1.5+ works now. My bed is built as follows from the bottom up:

- V-Slot H-Frame Using 8 V Wheels.
- 6mm Bakelite / Phenolic Sheet.
- 9mm Cork Sheet With Cutout for Heatbed Wiring.
- Silicone HeaterPad Approx 2mm Thick.
- 4mm Toughened Glass.

The bed is fairly heavy, but as long as it moves freely on the rails it hasn't been a problem.

The Heated Bed is 240 Volt, 1500 Watt (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Silicone-Heater-Pad-240V-1500W-450x450MM-With-3M-adhesive-abd-100k-thermistor/32400676471.html) - It is powered directly from the mains AC, and is controlled using the RAMPS via a DC / AC Solid State Relay. The heater is obviously quite powerful, but it heats up very quick and doesn't produce heat in the wrong places (Wiring, SSR etc) like you get when trying to power a bed this size through 12 or 24 Volts as they require a lot more Amps.

It will heat to 80c in about 15 seconds, and can heat to 130+. 1500 Watt sounds juicy, but in reality it takes 15 - 20 seconds to heat, then is run Bang-Bang mode, meaning that it only switches on for a couple of seconds at a time to maintain temperature.

There are things to consider, in the earlier revisions of my heated bed, the plastic parts on the bed would warp from the heat and eventually become unusable, I solved this by using the Bakelite Sheet and 9mm Cork Sheet at the bottom, this insulates the Bed Carriage from the bulk of the heat, I bought some Reflect-A-Gold tape to take this further but so far have not had the need to. An amount of heat still transfers to the Bed Carriage but not enough to warp parts, my printer parts are also printed in PETG now so are not as easily deformed by heat. I'm not sure what the 1.5+ bed uses in terms of plastic parts.

Parts like the Fan Shroud and other Extruder parts will feel the heat if left performing bottom layers for long periods of time, they will sag and eventually get pulled off when they clash with the print. Heat resistant materials should be used to re-print the extruder.

In terms of Auto Level, this has been in Marlin code for some time now, originally i used the Servo Kicker Probe method, which proved very very good for the time i was using it, i have now switched to using the BLTouch Probe (The same one gCreate has been testing) and it is a fantastic probe! Its very accurate and very cheap, i have made modified 1.5 extruders (both dual and single extruder) with built in adjustable mounts that you can use:

Image

Image

I'm not sure which version of Marlin the 1.5+ firmware is using, but i would recommend that you use the latest RC3 Release of Marlin, this has a more refined version of the Auto Bed Level code that shows good improvements from before - the 1.5+ firmware may already be using RC2 or RC3 Marlin.

Hope that helps.

Thanks

Alex
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Re: My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

Postby PianoPrint » Mon Feb 15, 2016 9:59 am

AlexD,

Thank you for taking the time to post in detail your approach on how you integrated your heat bed. I like it. As mentioned I have now the 1.0, and in a slow process of upgrading to a 1.5 + version. I am printing parts slowly. I recently went though a reprint, rebuild and reinforcement process of my 1.0. I went from not being able to print straight lines, and not hold dimensions to almost perfect prints. A lot of work, trouble shooting, and modifications. I can understand why one would want to go from the 1.0 to the 1.5+. I figure I need to post somewhere in this forum some of mods and calibrating changes I did on my 1.0 as I'm sure there are other owners out there of the 1.0 that could be running into the same issues as I did.

Any way, I am still trading right now if I want to do silicone heated mat or a kapton heater (as they are lighter / less inertia).

http://www.keenovo.com/products/kapton-heater.html

So I will be upgrading to a heated bed soon.

So far I can even print PETG up to a certain size parts,.After that well you know, the warping ... So, I am nt in a rush, but I realize that it needs to be done.

Any way, as I figure out what path I want to take I'll make sure to post my thoughts out here.

Thank you
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Re: My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

Postby AlexD » Fri Feb 19, 2016 5:46 am

I'm interested to see how the kapton heater works out for you. The only bit of solid advice I can give you is to make sure you have a solid 'base bed' and cork insulation.

Thanks

Alex
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Re: My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

Postby konton » Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:04 pm

Good stuff! I tried a heat bed. But it honestly takes forever to heat up.
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Re: My gMax 1.5 modded Trifecta

Postby AlexD » Thu Mar 24, 2016 8:32 am

I can understand that. This is why I decided to go for an AC powered heater.

Thanks

Alex
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