gmax1.5xt and simplfy3D

#22
Kyle: I used simplify 3D to slice the file and I added the start gcode that lifts the extruder that I found in your start gcode to my settings.

here is what I have in my start g code scripts in simplify3D:

G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000; Raise nozzle
 
#23
Hi santicluase,
I will be a lot faster to respond on support@gcreate.com.

I actually have never used simplify 3D. Gordon just sent me the beta S3D files in case anyone asked for them. It sounds like you need to put in the start and end gcode that we use for slic3r into S3D.

Start GCode:
Code:
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0; set 1st nozzle heater to first layer temperature
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1; set 2nd nozzle heater to first layer temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000; Raise nozzle
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0; set 1st nozzle heater to first layer temperature
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1; set 2nd nozzle heater to first layer temperature
G1 F5000 X210 Y210 Z1; Move print head to center and lower to first layer height
End GCode:
Code:
M104 S0 T0 ; turn off temperature 1st nozzle.
M104 S0 T1 ; turn off temperature 2nd nozzle.
G28 X0  ; home X axis
G28 Y0  ; home Y axis
M84     ; disable motors
 
#24
Ok, I'll try to email as well. I'll try this start and end g code out and see if it fixes the problem.

In the meantime I tried to troubleshoot by myself, and tried to use slic3r to slice the xboxcalibration model...when I went to print from the SD card using the slic3r generated g code, the printer homed the axis by going left till x endstop then bed slid forward towards me till y endstop then the extruder lifted about 10mm and started heating!!!! Got excited as that's what it's supposed to do I think... then once the heat stabilized at 201 degrees it went to center and started printing. All seemed well until it started to go in the y direction, it went off the bed (towards me) and was extruding plastic off the bed after the nozzle fought to get over the slight thickness of the aluminum angle attached to the bed.

It's almost like it doesn't know the dimensionless or something? Any ideas?

I have the bed size set in slic3r to: x=406.4 y=406.4
origin: x=203.2 y=203.2
 
#25
You probably need to use the slic3r configurations for the gMax. With slic3r open, Click on file> Load config bundle. Select the .ini file containing the slic3r presets. You should see a pop up window telling you that you have loaded 17 presets.
 
#26
Shouldn't these two lines of code be below the G1 Z5 F5000; Raise nozzle?

M104 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0; set 1st nozzle heater to first layer temperature
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1; set 2nd nozzle heater to first layer temperature

we want the raise nozzle to be first before it sets the nozzle temperatures right? That way it doesn't melt the bed, so should I put those two lines of code below the G1 Z5 F5000; Raise nozzle code?

I tried the start and end code as is the way you sent me and it did the same thing, didn't home any axis and started immediately heating the extruders close to the bed. So that didn't work.
 
#27
Ok, I will try that out. Note: I am running slic3r 1.2.6 not sure if that has anything to do with it. I loaded the bundle and it said what you said it would 17 loaded. I noticed it says printer single 0.5mm nozzle, that should be fine even though I am running a dual extruder set up right, I'm only using the left stock 0.5mm extruder though with 1.75mm colorfab white filament provided with the printer.

I'll give this a try real quick and see what happens!! I'll get back to you within a few minutes probably lol.

Also should I be using the xboxdualextruder.stl or the xboxsingleextruder.stl

again running a dual setup, but only using the 0.5mm left extruder as of now....should this matter when selecting which one of these .stl files to use to use for test printing/calibration tests?

I also see the printer settings are set for x=410 and y=400 is this right for the 1.5xt size? not 406.4 x 406.4?

Thanks, I feel we're close to figuring this out...I just want to get up and running!
 
#28
Ok, so I uploaded the config bundle into slic3r and I didn't change any settings, all I did was scale the original xboxdualconfiguration.stl file from 100% to 80% because I was afraid that with the skirt settings that I saw, 6mm away from the edge it might print off the bed....so I thought surely scaling the model down to 80% would leave enough room.

When I hit print from SD it homed x and y and said y was at 410, which was right according to the slic3r settings, then it lifted the extruders and heated the 1 extruder, then it went down to the the bottom of the print bed and went over the aluminum angle about half way and started to print the first line halfway up on the aluminum angle...I'm not sure what's going on, do you?
 
#29
I really wish I could get simplify 3D to work, and by that I mean heat my extruder up off the bed instead of right down on it.... I want to see the results with simplyfy on my gmax...

As of now I'm doing all my testing using slic3r...
It looks and sounds like my extruder is not coming up high enough after each layer to print the next layer, I say this because when it's drawing a new layer I can hear it going over the previous layer as if you were to scratch your fingernail across the print layers, that's what it sounds like, how do I fix this, I think this is altering my print quality drastically!! I'm getting ehhh prints so far...tried 20mm cube and a simple arrow with bevels.
 
#30
Shouldn't these two lines of code be below the G1 Z5 F5000; Raise nozzle?

M104 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0; set 1st nozzle heater to first layer temperature
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1; set 2nd nozzle heater to first layer temperature

M104 tells the printer to set to [first_layer_temperature] and proceed on to the next line of gcode.

M109 tells the printer to set to [first_layer_temperature] and wait until the hotend is within +-3 degrees for 10 seconds until proceeding to the next line.

M104 basically just tells the printer to start heating while it homes and set-ups up. Just to speed things up. You could delete it if you want.

One of my favorite websites...http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

It looks and sounds like my extruder is not coming up high enough after each layer to print the next layer, I say this because when it's drawing a new layer I can hear it going over the previous layer as if you were to scratch your fingernail across the print layers, that's what it sounds like, how do I fix this
Adjust your z-axis zero point to bring the extruder up just a hair while it prints the first layer. Try a quarter to half turn clockwise. (the screw behind the x-axis motor).
 
#31
that worked to get rid of the clicking/ extruder not being able to be pushed out sound; however it seems like I get a perfect first line with my skirt and first lines of the 1st layer, but then on the 2nd layer I can kinda still hear it rub across the 1st layer...I'm affraid that if I adjust the z axis endstop again I'll loose my perfect 1st layer. I can live with it, but I just don't want my extruder to come loose or something over time, or I'm not sure am I just a hair off or something?

Also I still haven't gotten simplify to tell me extruders to lift before heating, but as long as my extruders aren't right down on the bed or homed before I hit the print button, I can still use simplify because it heats it off the bed, then homes, and goes straight to print.

I find myself with a pair of pliers before every print, grabbing the oozeing pla from the extruder right before it touches the bed to begin the print to avoid it dragging it over to the center and messing up my first layer. Is there a way to stop the filament from oozing out like that everytime while it's heating up?
 

AlexD

New Member
#32
I get that too, reducing the first layer thickness seemed to help for me, however then you compromise the first layer adhesion. Personally it doesn't bother me, i don't think theres enough stress to affect the hotend?
 
#33
Yea my first layer thickness is 125% I thought about going to 100 and see what that does. I don't think it could mess with the hotend, but overtime it might wiggle the clamp that holds the hot end still loose?

I have another question: after my print is done, my fan runs 100% i think to cool the hotend back down...well when my hotend is cooled down to 26 degrees I think it is... my fan keeps running..I only ask this because if I start a print before I go to bed, I don't want my fan running 100% all night...is there a way my fan can turn off once my extruders reach the cooled down temp?
 
#34
Hey kyle, here is an image of an egg I printed, you can see the layer shifting or horizontal banding...before I was just seeing small vertical banding on my 20mm cubes, but this shows I think horizontal banding as well..any ideas?
 
#36
HI Santa,
Tighten up the hotend swing arm. Your horizontal banding is probably from the hotend being loose.

The vertical banding is from backlash or recoil (depending on which word you prefer). This is caused by a loose belt or too much friction. I had a piece of plastic stuck in my carriage once and the banding was extreme. The wheel bearings will break in over time which helps to reduce the back lash.

You can also reduce the perimeter acceleration settings in your slicing software.
 
#37
Hi, could you describe to me how to tighten the extruder swing arm? my belts were pretty tight I thought, but maybe I had to much friction on my vwheels, I loosened the right carrige bar and brought it closer to the other carriage bar only by 1/8'' that was as much as I could go before the v wheels wanted to drop out of the little channel they are suppose to ride along.

so I did that, and I also took off the tensioner springs on both belts then pulled the belts taught and tightened them without the springs.

it seems like there was more tension or resistence on the right side of what I think is my extruder arm than the left side...I think this has something to do with the spring that is inside the assembly with the threaded z rods. I tried to adjust the acme nuts and things to get a bit more tension on the spring, I think I did but I'm not sure lol.

I seem to have a new problem now though. After making all these adjustments, I turned on my printer and I got the Err: min temp error ...I took a look at some things, and disconected and re connected what I think the manual says is the connections for both the thermisistors...they seemed to look fine and fit fine. My left extruder says 0 and my right one seems fine. Here is an image of the only thing I can think may be wrong, it's a little dark area under the capton tape...any ideas!!!?
 
#39
santiclause said:
that worked to get rid of the clicking/ extruder not being able to be pushed out sound; however it seems like I get a perfect first line with my skirt and first lines of the 1st layer, but then on the 2nd layer I can kinda still hear it rub across the 1st layer...I'm affraid that if I adjust the z axis endstop again I'll loose my perfect 1st layer. I can live with it, but I just don't want my extruder to come loose or something over time, or I'm not sure am I just a hair off or something?

Also I still haven't gotten simplify to tell me extruders to lift before heating, but as long as my extruders aren't right down on the bed or homed before I hit the print button, I can still use simplify because it heats it off the bed, then homes, and goes straight to print.

I find myself with a pair of pliers before every print, grabbing the oozeing pla from the extruder right before it touches the bed to begin the print to avoid it dragging it over to the center and messing up my first layer. Is there a way to stop the filament from oozing out like that everytime while it's heating up?
The hotend should not be dragging on the previously printed layer. This means the z stop is still a little off and your hotend is still too close to the bed. You said adjusting it made the clicking go away and the filament is now coming out and it 'seems' like a perfect first layer. Try raising it a little more and you should see a much better first layer and that should eliminate the drag on previously printed layer. You do not want any mechanical stress on your hot end and continued rubbing of the hot end over cold plastic (previous layers) will cause the whole carriage to raise slightly to get over the plastic or force the hot end through it which WILL loosen the clamp over time. When it happens once or twice it's no big deal, but when it occurs over and over again over multi hour prints, it will loosen the clamp. Better to adjust your endstop/fix the problem then to 'live with it'.

FYI - I print my first layer widths between 120-150% depending on the print/object size. First layer height at 110% They are nice fat tracks. I print directly on unheated 2.5 mm glass from home depot with Aquanet hairspray as a bed adhesive. I also use a 2 loop brim for better first layer adhesion. This is accomplished by going to the additions tab in Simplify and entering:

1 for skirt layers,
0 for skirt offset and
2 for brim loops. This will give you 2 nice outer loops that get laid down first with your object then printed in the confines of the loop. The 2 loops are easily removed from the print by simply peeling them off. In the injection molding world, its commonly known as flashing. With PLA, I've found those settings to be optimal.

I use Simplify3D almost exclusively now. The issue you're having is not in your starting gCode block but rather in the temperature settings . Double click the process and go to the Temperature tab. Uncheck 'wait for temperature to stabilize before beginning build'. This is what is causing your issue. Simplify will insert an M109 Sxxx Txxx command BEFORE your starting gCode block. This causes the nozzle to wait until the specified temperature is reached before your starting gCode is executed.

After you uncheck the box that should solve the problem of the nozzles not raising before heating but that now creates the opportunity for the printer to start printing before the nozzles get to temperature and if the nozzles are not hot enough the printer will prevent a cold extrude but will continue processing the code without spitting out any plastic. In essence, that's bad so we need to reintroduce the M109 in the starting gCode.

This is what your staring gCode should look like. A line beginning with a semi colon is not processed and any comments after a semi colon are ignored.



G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107; Fan off or M106 S0 works too.
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
G92 E0
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
M204 S500; Set default acceleration (I keep my accelleration pretty low)
G28; Home all
G1 Z5; Raise nozzle 5 mm
M109 S199 T0 ;wait for extruder to reach target temp before continuing. (change 199 to the desired target temperature value)


It's difficult to stop the hotend ooze completely but you could create a small wipe routine that primes and cleans the nozzles right before the print starts. This is done with gCode commands to move the hotend to an unused portio n of the bed (rear corner) at a very low height to wipe away the oozing filment right after the M109 has completed.


Hope this helps.


ShaqFoo
 
#40
SantiClause,

Did unchecking the boxes work for you? (see my post above). By unchecking the boxes S3D will not insert any gCode (M109 commands) ahead of your starting gCode. If you don't you will have to wait for the hotends to heat then YOUR code starts to execute.

It took me a bit to learn S3D and I got frustrated with it numerous times. In the end, it was operator error. (i.e. I didn't know what the bleep I was doing).

I found the best way to figure out what everything does is just play and tweak stuff. - turn it up to 11. (old Spinal Tap reference).