Recent content by Roxy

Do you have a BL-Touch probe on it? If so... Are you seeing the red error light on the probe? Because if you are seeing the error light, BL-Touch probes return a 'Triggered' status while in an error state. If that is happening, you need to work to get the BL-Touch not to be in an error...

Marlin has a PID Autotune function for the extruders and the bed. It has nothing to do with the slicer you are using. The auto tune feature heats up the specified bed or nozzle and watches the temperature curve as it does so... From this information it is able to deduce the 'correct' PID...

85 C. sounds low to me. Pretty much, I need to have the bed at 105 C. to keep ABS's corners from peeling up. Personally, I think hairspray is better and easier to use than any of the glue sticks. But ABS prints on glass very nicely.

It may be easier to use the M851 command in Marlin to adjust the Z-Probe-Offset-From-Extruder. If you adjust it and get the desired results, you then do an M500 to save all your settings to EEPROM and the adjustment will be sticky and be there every time you power up the printer.

I like to print on glass sprayed with a very light layer of hair spray. When the print is done, you just put the glass in the freezer and the print snaps off easily.

Yes! I forgot to mention this in my post up above. You need to configure your Marlin firmware on the printer to hold the motors in position when you pause your print. This can be done in the Configuration_adv.h: // Default stepper release if idle. Set to 0 to deactivate. // Steppers will...

Re: New BL touch just blinking. \ The BL-Touch probes can get dirty and fail also. Try manually pulling the pin (with power off) to see if the pin moves easily and freely. Some times, filament pieces can get wedged between the pin and the plastic housing.

I pause difficult prints very often at night. For example, this print takes 20 hours and I don't dare leave it run at night: http://i1378.photobucket.com/albums/ah9 ... sddaq9.jpg I typically use PronterFace, but this can be done from the LCD Panel also. I pause the print while the printer...

I'm not at home with where I have my printer and the computer dedicated to it. So I can't check what USB Serial Port driver I have loaded. But I do have many of my files replicated on this computer. It could be from one of these links: https://serialio.com/drivers-and-set-up ...

So... I can't give exact specifics... What I tell you may not be 100% correct... But it will be 'mostly' correct... You need to hunt down a USB Serial Port driver. You need to get a COM (and Print???) port entry to show up in your Device Manager list. (If you look at your device types...

I emailed you the pictures... But the .ZIP file has both the source file (for OpenScad) and the .STL so you can just slice and print. You can pull the .STL file into NetFabb and look at everything.

Oh! OK! I get it. But either way, if you mess with the length of the Z-Probe, you will need to adjust it. You can use M851 and then save the result to EEPROM (using M500). Or you can change the default value in the firmware, load the default settings using M502 and then save to EEPROM...

In fact... if you knew how to rebuild and load the firmware, the BLTouch probably was not too long. Instead, you could have just edited the line #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER in the Configuration.h file and set it to the 'right' number. If you wish to change the firmware, the first...

It kind of sounds like you might have a bad connection somewhere. One thing to try is plug the SD-Memory card in and out 50 or 100 times. If either the SD-Memory card or the socket has some corrosion on the contacts, this might clean it off.

You can help the Left to Right difference by turning one of the Z-Axis motors and leaving the other one alone. It is possible one of your motors lost some steps. Go slow... Maybe an 1/8 of a turn at a time and then check both sides for how much clearance they have. Even though you...