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sold. thanks

nice.. im glad the fix was that easy.. mine was the LCD (card reader) itself.

Truly, the hotend does make a difference, but 75% of it still probably lies within your settings in your slicer. It is hard to hear sometimes and ive been there. I have owned 11 printers. It wasnt til the 5th where I actually got good results. Its hour after hour after hour making finite...

requires a couple of new parts. 1. Fan shroud 2. BLtouch sensor holder. that said i am STOKED i upgraded mine. quality went up measurably, and reliability too. I love everything about it.

if you put the sd card in before powering up the unit does it work? i had the same problem. Mine ended up being the LCD screen itself. Working with Kyle from gcreate we troubleshot the cables from LCD to Ramps board, etc. It ended up being the LCD screen.

you need to add the start code. put this in your scripts inside s3d for your process G28 X0 Y0 ; Home X and Y axis G28 ; Home all axis G29 ; Auto bed leveling probe M218 T1 X33.90 Y-0.3; Set 2nd extruder offset. This method is better than setting in in the extruder tab since it can be updated...

are you printing with ABS? or what filament is this? you want every filament to stick :) but some do better than others.

S3D website has explanations of all of their settings. its very well written and supported. so with the curling. thats a huge piece. its going to curl, unless you take precautions. 1. The stock acrylic bed (no offense gcreate) is not flat. mine was quite honestly terrible. however the heated...

I also have an e3d hotend on my gmax, i would say thats a fairly cheap and good upgrade :)

2 things. need a ptfe tube running up to the hobbed bolt (gear) that is angled so there is NO room. on top of that if you disable retraction that will help prevent that from coming out that gap, because it never retracts which causes that issue

i print nothing above .3mm layer height.. almost always .2mm.

ive used EVERY slicer on the market... its not even close... ive had multiple prints that wouldnt even work on some slicers. Ive never found anything s3d wouldnt print (although im sure its out there somewhere)

THis will sound super rude, but please dont take it as anything other than "TRUST ME" You just spend 3k$ on a rockstar printer (and it is), Buy simplify 3d. Its superior to every other slicer by a wide margin. Better supports, better quality prints, etc. It is literally better in every way...

perfect.. hope everything works out... PEI is a miracle surface.

I use alcohol between every print. any oils from finger prints etc can cause parts not to stick.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y ... UTF8&psc=1

ive never printed on straight glass yet... for ninja if i do ill use purple glue stick. all the others are attached to the extra sheet of glass.

I personally did not and would not install the buildtak. I bought 4 pieces of normal glass from lowes, cut to 16x16. 1 for pei 1 for buildtak 1 for some other junk 1 for nothing just glass for ninjaflex etc. thats just how i did it. i have no problem heating a glass piece above the stock...

i just use 3m adhesive sheets.. cant remember the part number exactly, ill try to look :)