newby questions

Just unpacked the Gmax mave a couple of newby questions.

I'm using Slic3r software do I need to use another software to convert Slic3r to GCODE?

Slic3r is asking Gcode flavor, bed size, nozzle etc. Where can I find this info. I can seem to download the GMAX user manual is this info somewhere else?

THis will sound super rude, but please dont take it as anything other than "TRUST ME"

You just spend 3k$ on a rockstar printer (and it is), Buy simplify 3d.
Its superior to every other slicer by a wide margin. Better supports, better quality prints, etc.
It is literally better in every way.

Congrats on your printer.
ive used EVERY slicer on the market... its not even close...
ive had multiple prints that wouldnt even work on some slicers. Ive never found anything s3d wouldnt print (although im sure its out there somewhere)
You will love it. If you need any help with it just post here. Im pretty sure about everyone uses it here. Theres a config file in downloads on this site (downloads.php?cat=10) that you can import in the config file to s3d and basically take off printing
Simplify3D works great!! Thanks for the advice. It would be nice to see a detailed explanation for what all of the setting mean but for now its working great.

I have one unrelated problem, a couple of corners are lifting. I have just put on new blue tape and was able to watch the first several layers being placed and it stuck fine. The print lasted many hours but when checked in the morning a couple corners have lifted.

What I'm printing now does not matter but the real stuff i cant have corners lift.

I am printing the raft slow, i think it's set at 30%.
S3D website has explanations of all of their settings. its very well written and supported.

so with the curling.
thats a huge piece. its going to curl, unless you take precautions.

1. The stock acrylic bed (no offense gcreate) is not flat. mine was quite honestly terrible. however the heated bed glass is amazing. im not saying you have to upgrade (if you didnt buy a heated bed), but it could be a reason.
2. that part with its holes etc is MADE for warping. That part will warp in 99% of situations. You could put a dab of superglue on that corner after a couple layers have printed. or use glue stick, and try to fight the peel forces.
3. Build surface. For the longest time i used (and still do) PEI. its a miracle . I am now using (and still testing) printinz. All indications are ABS (which in a huge open frame like gmax) is nearly impossible to stick. Ive printed multiple parts with ZERO, and im being serious, ZERO warping or cracking. Im stunned.
but you could get a build surface like pei, buildtak, printinz etc. which is a help

more on that later )
PEI (ULTEM) is expensive, I'm looking into getting the glass heated bed.

You mentioned ABS, is that the filament your talking about, and I'm not sure what won't stick, seems like I want it to stick.

I'll check out Printinz too.
you need to add the start code.

put this in your scripts inside s3d for your process
G28 X0 Y0 ; Home X and Y axis
G28 ; Home all axis
G29 ; Auto bed leveling probe
M218 T1 X33.90 Y-0.3; Set 2nd extruder offset. This method is better than setting in in the extruder tab since it can be updated easily later
M201 X600 Y600; Set X and Y acceleration values
M204 S600; Set default acceleration
G1 Z15 F5000; Raise nozzle
M106 S[0]; Turn off fan
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0; Layer 1 temperature for extruder 0
M109 S[extruder0_temperature] T0; Layer 1 temperature for extruder 0
M104 S[extruder1_temperature] T1; Layer 1 temperature for extruder 1
M109 S[extruder1_temperature] T1; Layer 1 temperature for extruder 1
G1 X210 Y210 Z5 F9000